Wide World Wanders

Managua is one of those cities that can suck you in. The tough history of this country is overcome by the tenacity of its residents bringing it to life.  Between many years of conflict and a series of earthquakes, most recently in 1973, Managua has taken a few punches but it marches forward with vigor. I am in awe of the hospitality and authenticity of the Nicaraguan people.  I have no doubt I will one day return.

Managua is often a hub for visits to multiple sites in the country but I think it deserves more time to begin to understand this fascinating country.  I visited Granada, Leon, beaches and Masaya Volcano on a previous trip– all absolutely worth a visit also.  Nicaragua has become my favorite Central America destination and I have not even yet visited the Caribbean side!  See previous post about the beautiful mountains.

I was in Nicaragua to work on a project with a healthcare start-up called Estacion Vital.  I will write more about the company and project but I will say that it was a fabulous experience to work with an energetic entrepreneur and his team dedicated to improving access to care in this amazing country.  He and those surrounding him exemplify the spirit of the people—welcoming, sincere, and steadfastly committed to the country they love so much.  It is always a privilege to stay somewhere long enough to get a little taste of real life in a place.  It is an even greater privilege to learn from others in faraway places and be reminded again just how connected–and similar–we all are. 

In addition to working on my main project in Managua, I had the opportunity to meet many others working on social impact causes in the country. The city can feel quite international because of the thousands of people from other countries working or living here.  A few organizations that inspire me:

I had the pleasure of spending a bit of time at Chureca Chic, a coffee shop (with fabulous coffee) and boutique that sells products made by women in an impressive 11-month training program run by the Earth Education Project.  The dedication and the rigor of this program to empower women living in poverty in the city could be a model for programs everywhere.

I spent my last week in Managua at a beautiful eco-hostel, La Bicicleta, run by four amazing women. They are dedicated to showing off the country they love so much.  The hostel is beautifully designed but the best thing is the staff—knowledgeable, helpful and proactive.  They also set up a very good city tour (Must-Do!) which is an excellent introduction to the country.  They arrange visits to various places around the country. I look forward to following the exciting things they have in store to make people feel at home in beautiful Nicaragua.

One of the incredible things about this fellowship experience is sharing it with my colleagues from different parts of the world and learning about different sectors as MovingWorlds has a wide diversity of partners. I got to spend some time with a colleague from Brazil working with NicaPhoto on holistic educational support in Nicaragua and their partner organization based in the US , Level Up Village, promoting collaboration on STEAM education around the world.  I am beyond impressed and love this concept of connecting the world.  An excerpt: Volcanoes, Songs and Laughs: Cross-Cultural Conversation Deepens Bonds Between Students.

As this particular stop in the journey comes to an end, I move on hopefully wiser, definitely more enriched, humble and grateful to be able to connect in a meaningful way with that great big world out there. Even as the world seems increasingly difficult, I am unshakably optimistic as I cross paths with those making Hope a daily Reality. Thank you for the unparalleled hospitality, Managua. Until we meet again.

I’ll start by saying simply I Love Nicaragua– the people, the natural beauty, the resilience and authenticity.  This is my second trip to Nicaragua and I spent most of my time working on my project in Managua (more to come on that!).  I had previously visited the beautiful towns of Granada and Leon, peered into the mouth of a volcano and visited the beaches. So on this trip I finally got to visit the mountains around Matagalpa and Esteli. Not only are they a nice respite from the heat below…they are magnificent.

The city of Matagalpa is growing rapidly because of coffee and other agriculture.  It feels like both a bustling city and a small town as the houses sprawl and climb up the mountainsides from the valley.  I stayed up on the hillside and enjoyed the calm, peaceful views but wandering the town is a treat as a taste of real Nicaragua.

I had the pleasure of taking two different tours with Matagalpa Tours and I highly recommend them.  They are a small company dedicated to sustainability and supporting small local businesses.  My first tour included a visit to a small but fabulous family-owned coffee farm, Finca El Guayabo.  We walked through the gorgeous farm and learned about their process before having lunch with the family.  I am impressed by their hard work, commitment to employees and their love of the land.  The couple who started the farm met while picking coffee decades ago and slowly built up the farm over the years.  Their dedication shows in the excellent coffee.  They also offer a few rooms for people who want to stay a night, or a while.

The day ended with a hike through farmland in the area, past several rural communities who have farmed the land for centuries, past swimming halls and to waterfalls. One day is simply not enough to appreciate this serenity, but I’ll take it!

I also did a city tour with Matagalpa Tours to learn a little more about the history of this area. I spent a fair amount of time in Nicaragua learning more about the country’s history. I won’t do it the injustice of writing about it here but I will say that with centuries of challenge of conflict, external forces, and natural disasters I remain inspired and humbled by the resilience and especially the generosity of the people.  Pictured is Nicaragua’s second favorite son, Ruben Dario, hero and poet. Someone told me that every leader should be a poet. After spending a little time here, you know, maybe that is so.

The bucolic drives between Managua, Matagalpa and Esteli are themselves something to be savored…

A visit to Selva Negra should be required on any trip to Nicaragua.  Dedicated to sustainability with every step, it is an historic coffee farm originally settled by Germans (Selva Negra= Black Forest).  It also provides healthcare and education to the 600 families in the community.  There are various hiking trails through one of the few remaining cloud forests and you can tour or amble around the beautiful La Hammonia farm just down the hill. I would recommend spending a night or two in the ecolodge onsite.

And finally, I got to spend a few days in Esteli, a farm town a few hours north that feels quite different from Matagalpa. It is a real working town, off many of the tourist tracks although it is a gateway to amazing places in the north. (I was attempting to visit the Miraflor Nature Reserve but I will have to visit on my next trip.)  It played a critical role in the revolution (as did Matagalpa) and they are dedicated to ensuring that history is not forgotten.  A visit to the Heroes and Martyrs Museum is a must.  I also took a tour of the murals which help recall the revolutionary history but are now supported by nonprofit organizations who work with children and young people to create beautiful and inspirational murals reflecting their values. For more information: read here

In Esteli, I had the pleasure of staying in Hotel Los Arcos (highly recommended!), a nonprofit hotel and restaurant whose profits entirely support various social programs for children and adults in the region in partnership with a Spanish organization, Fundacion Familias Unidas.

So over the week, I met many people from all over the world doing various things to make a difference in this big interconnected planet.  In addition to those folks in Managua who have inspired me, I’m thrilled to have added a week to my time in Nicaragua.  I can’t imagine what can top being surrounded by those living with purpose every day.  Here’s to building bridges, not walls.

Semana Santa (Holy Week) is celebrated in Antigua perhaps like no other place in Latin America.  It is now known around the world and attracts many international tourists in addition to thousands of Guatemalans participating in the festivities.

The key events are the processions, sponsored by different humandads (brotherhoods) that recreate the detailed story of the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ over the course of several days.

They are unique as they incorporate Mayan tradition by carrying intricate floats depicting key scenes designed by local artisans and beautiful offerings of street carpets (alfombras) carefully composed with flowers and sawdust throughout the day before each procession.

It has become quite a show but retains its sincerity along with various vigils and services around the city. What a privilege we had to experience just a few days of these dedications merging traditions from such different worlds.

Antigua itself is a gorgeous little city in a stunning setting surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. The main square is beautiful and the cobblestone streets are a pleasure to wander.  Simply amble a few blocks away from the heavily-touristed main areas to get a more local feel.  Just about every place feels like you’re walking through a painting.

It is an excellent base to visit Guatemala, whether hiking volcanoes, visiting coffee farms or relaxing on Lago Atitlan (see previous). The drive between the lake and Antigua is an event of beauty itself. Antigua is a must on any Central America itinerary.

So our short visit to Guatemala came to an end much too quickly. Few places genuinely surpass expectations but this country was one of them for me.  How lucky I would be to someday return.

Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.  –Ralph Waldo Emerson

Lago Atitlan, a volcanic lake at 5000 feet in the Guatemalan Highlands is nothing short of spectacular.  Aldous Huxley declared, “Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes.  It really is too much of a good thing.”  I could not agree more, as I continually found myself in awe at the indescribable beauty.

The lake is surrounded by small villages accessible mainly by boat. We chose to stay in Santiago on the south side of the lake between two volcanoes.  It is the largest village with about 30,000 people, mostly from various Mayan groups, and has a warm feeling of quiet authenticity.  It was the perfect place to slow down and soak in an entirely different world for a few days. (It is possible to hike said volcanoes if so inclined.)

Visiting other villages by boat (lancha) is quite easy. Locals cross the lake often for work, visiting, or shopping at the different markets.  We went to San Pedro, a quiet little place with the more local life at the top of the hill near the beautiful square. Each village has its own character with warm, welcoming people plus being out on the water itself is a treat.

The ecological and political histories of this area are complex. It is one of the poorest areas in the country and has been caught in several political conflicts over the years. In the mountains are rich agricultural lands used for subsistence farming and for exports of coffee and multiple crops. The lake currently faces numerous challenges, thought to be caused partially be the introduction of foreign bass years ago and ongoing pollution from fertilizers and waste throwing off ecological balances.  This water is literally a lifeline for so many and the area also attracts significant tourism dollars with its unique beauty.

But everything this particular week revolved around Semana Santa celebrations and they are especially interesting in Santiago. This is one of the villages where Maximon plays quite a role. Maximon is a saint thought to be a combination of Mayan and Catholic traditions.  He is sometimes described as “a keeper of the balance between the shadow and the light” and I must say that I appreciate this concept.  During most of the year, “he” lives in one of several houses and to see him you must bring an offering of money, cigarettes, liquor, or such.  Then you may ask for a blessing.

This week, however, he comes out in public and we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse with hundreds of others!  So pleased with our time here, we bought a tiny Maximon for our home in Seattle.  Here’s hoping that Hubby is keeping him happy as we aim to tip the balance not toward the shadows but toward the light.

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” –Marchel Proust

After a long delay to get to Guatemala resulting in no sleep our first night, we were thrilled to arrive at the oasis of Centro Paz Mundo near Sololá.  Set on a sacred place of the Mayan priesthood for thousands of years, it is a meditation and peace center with a vision to “build bridges between cultures and religions.” They offer various retreats and have gorgeous grounds with multiple Mayan altars, intercultural temples, pyramids and trails for strolling the steep hills overlooking stunning views toward Lago Atitlan.

We were between sessions but were happy to support the philosophy and the causes.  They run various social programs to support education, food and emergencies for the Mayan population in one of the poorest areas of Guatemala.  They run a hospital, a hospitalito that is, right next door. It was closed for the holiday week but we got a wonderful tour by Carmen.  It offers general medicine, multiple clinics and surgeries for no charge. It has specific programs for children, providing therapy for those with special needs or disabilities and donated wheelchairs, as a few examples. Later in April, a medical team from the US was arriving for a 10-day intensive clinic, open to the region.  Only day 1, and I am inspired!

Hospitalito at Paz Mundo–architect hubby admiring the courtyard

Hospitalito Paz Mundo

We decided to travel to Guatemala on the way to my project in Nicaragua because it would be Holy Week, Semana Santa, and it is a significant celebration throughout the country.  Guatemala is deeply Catholic but I understand much of the Mayan traditions are retained.  But more on that later, as the main event is in Antigua!

On Palm Sunday, we went to Sololá a few kilometers away.  It is a terrific Mayan town with a big market attracting people from all over the region on certain days. This day was special also because of the holiday.  Many women and some men in the region still wear traditional Mayan dress and each version is gorgeous– the patterns and the colors. Textile lovers could spend weeks in the region. Down the hill is the main square with a big church packed with attendees for the Sunday service and a beautiful park where the whole town was out to celebrate, have an ice cream, and be with the community. Sololá is definitely a place to linger for a few days to experience a slice of an authentic Mayan town without so many tourists…and these views are unbelievable.

Finally, we went 2000 feet down to Panajachel on the north side of Lago Atitlan. It is a tourist and expat hub so not my favorite town but two things (other than practicalities like ATMs!) made it worthwhile:  a short hike in Reserva Natural Atitlan, an old coffee plantation turned reserve, and a local Semana Santa celebration at the beautiful 16th century Cathedral near the interesting market.  (The old town is much more interesting than tourist areas.)

The Reserva is a pleasant place to spend a little time to escape the heat of Panajachel. Dedicated to spending our money cautiously and purposefully, we were thrilled to pay the $8 USD admission to support this organization with programs promoting the health of the lake, now challenged by rising waters, pollution and cyanobacteria.  The park has a few rescued animals, a butterfly house and a private beach down the hill. I can’t vouch for the many suspended bridges but they are definitely an adventure!

Generally our first few days aimed at purposefully supporting local causes and businesses ended up serving an additional purpose–a bit of slow relaxation and unrushed time together after several crazy months.  Sometimes appreciating those you love can be the greatest purpose of all.

http://www.centropazmundo.com/

http://www.centropazmundo.com/peace-foundation/

http://atitlanreserva.com/wp/en/welcome/  

I’m not sure when I discovered Wide World Books and Maps in Seattle.  I suppose it has been part of my life intermittently for two decades. But some Saturday some years ago, I joined one of the Saturday morning groups to gather information for what would be my round-the-world adventure a few years later.  As the Gutsy Women Travelers shared their stories of traveling for months on end, staying with strangers, and working in various developing countries, I knew I had found a special version of home.

I’ve popped in and out of these groups, travel talks and the shop for many years.  It isn’t everywhere you find a group that viscerally understands an unbridled curiosity about faraway places and understands the real purpose in going, seeing, listening, learning.  Travel is not just adventure and certainly not just an escape. It is hope. It is optimism. It is trust.  It is a commitment to be part of that global world out there, to recognize our place in that big, magical community of imperfect souls and to do our best to become a better citizen.  To be overwhelmed by gratitude, to practice empathy, and to try to give more than we take as we journey through that big classroom of life.

So at the end of April, the store is closing, as most independent bookshops have already done.  The most recent owner, Julie, has kept this place– this community– going for many years as a labor of love.  For the last 40 years, it has served as a resource and community and has touched uncountable lives in profound ways.  To those who find purpose in making the world a more inclusive, curious, positive place, who create welcoming spaces and support dreams, we cannot thank you enough.  To those who are dedicated to building bridges, you are forever a part of who we are.

“Everything I was I carry with me.  Everything I will be lies waiting on the road ahead.”  –Ma Jian

My strength has never been looking back. I’m one of those insufferable people who declares that she seamlessly closes chapters never to look back again.  Everyone knows those experiences are always with us, so I woke up in the middle of last night realizing that I must add some special organizations and people that inspired me and touched my life.  I’ll add them randomly over time to my Links.  To get started with just a few:

I had the pleasure of spending a moment in time with The Light and Leadership Institute in Huaycan, Peru. It touched my life and I’ve watched them grow and expand their impact over the years. Someday I’ll hopefully go back. I certainly didn’t want to leave. http://www.lightandleadership.org/ 

I also had to add a new category called Special Places.  I’ve traveled a bit but there are those stand-out experiences that you know you could never replicate.  These are small businesses driven by inspirational people living their passion and purpose. And they are spectacularly special.  From a magical week in the Gobi desert to a special B&B in New Orleans to studying Spanish with a family in Peru to a yoga weekend in East Texas– each of these moments inspired me. My only regret is not buying that shirt that read, “Namaste, y’all.”

“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” –Susan Sontag