Lago Atitlan, a volcanic lake at 5000 feet in the Guatemalan Highlands is nothing short of spectacular.  Aldous Huxley declared, “Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes.  It really is too much of a good thing.”  I could not agree more, as I continually found myself in awe at the indescribable beauty.

The lake is surrounded by small villages accessible mainly by boat. We chose to stay in Santiago on the south side of the lake between two volcanoes.  It is the largest village with about 30,000 people, mostly from various Mayan groups, and has a warm feeling of quiet authenticity.  It was the perfect place to slow down and soak in an entirely different world for a few days. (It is possible to hike said volcanoes if so inclined.)

Visiting other villages by boat (lancha) is quite easy. Locals cross the lake often for work, visiting, or shopping at the different markets.  We went to San Pedro, a quiet little place with the more local life at the top of the hill near the beautiful square. Each village has its own character with warm, welcoming people plus being out on the water itself is a treat.

The ecological and political histories of this area are complex. It is one of the poorest areas in the country and has been caught in several political conflicts over the years. In the mountains are rich agricultural lands used for subsistence farming and for exports of coffee and multiple crops. The lake currently faces numerous challenges, thought to be caused partially be the introduction of foreign bass years ago and ongoing pollution from fertilizers and waste throwing off ecological balances.  This water is literally a lifeline for so many and the area also attracts significant tourism dollars with its unique beauty.

But everything this particular week revolved around Semana Santa celebrations and they are especially interesting in Santiago. This is one of the villages where Maximon plays quite a role. Maximon is a saint thought to be a combination of Mayan and Catholic traditions.  He is sometimes described as “a keeper of the balance between the shadow and the light” and I must say that I appreciate this concept.  During most of the year, “he” lives in one of several houses and to see him you must bring an offering of money, cigarettes, liquor, or such.  Then you may ask for a blessing.

This week, however, he comes out in public and we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse with hundreds of others!  So pleased with our time here, we bought a tiny Maximon for our home in Seattle.  Here’s hoping that Hubby is keeping him happy as we aim to tip the balance not toward the shadows but toward the light.

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” –Marchel Proust

After a long delay to get to Guatemala resulting in no sleep our first night, we were thrilled to arrive at the oasis of Centro Paz Mundo near Sololá.  Set on a sacred place of the Mayan priesthood for thousands of years, it is a meditation and peace center with a vision to “build bridges between cultures and religions.” They offer various retreats and have gorgeous grounds with multiple Mayan altars, intercultural temples, pyramids and trails for strolling the steep hills overlooking stunning views toward Lago Atitlan.

We were between sessions but were happy to support the philosophy and the causes.  They run various social programs to support education, food and emergencies for the Mayan population in one of the poorest areas of Guatemala.  They run a hospital, a hospitalito that is, right next door. It was closed for the holiday week but we got a wonderful tour by Carmen.  It offers general medicine, multiple clinics and surgeries for no charge. It has specific programs for children, providing therapy for those with special needs or disabilities and donated wheelchairs, as a few examples. Later in April, a medical team from the US was arriving for a 10-day intensive clinic, open to the region.  Only day 1, and I am inspired!

Hospitalito at Paz Mundo–architect hubby admiring the courtyard

Hospitalito Paz Mundo

We decided to travel to Guatemala on the way to my project in Nicaragua because it would be Holy Week, Semana Santa, and it is a significant celebration throughout the country.  Guatemala is deeply Catholic but I understand much of the Mayan traditions are retained.  But more on that later, as the main event is in Antigua!

On Palm Sunday, we went to Sololá a few kilometers away.  It is a terrific Mayan town with a big market attracting people from all over the region on certain days. This day was special also because of the holiday.  Many women and some men in the region still wear traditional Mayan dress and each version is gorgeous– the patterns and the colors. Textile lovers could spend weeks in the region. Down the hill is the main square with a big church packed with attendees for the Sunday service and a beautiful park where the whole town was out to celebrate, have an ice cream, and be with the community. Sololá is definitely a place to linger for a few days to experience a slice of an authentic Mayan town without so many tourists…and these views are unbelievable.

Finally, we went 2000 feet down to Panajachel on the north side of Lago Atitlan. It is a tourist and expat hub so not my favorite town but two things (other than practicalities like ATMs!) made it worthwhile:  a short hike in Reserva Natural Atitlan, an old coffee plantation turned reserve, and a local Semana Santa celebration at the beautiful 16th century Cathedral near the interesting market.  (The old town is much more interesting than tourist areas.)

The Reserva is a pleasant place to spend a little time to escape the heat of Panajachel. Dedicated to spending our money cautiously and purposefully, we were thrilled to pay the $8 USD admission to support this organization with programs promoting the health of the lake, now challenged by rising waters, pollution and cyanobacteria.  The park has a few rescued animals, a butterfly house and a private beach down the hill. I can’t vouch for the many suspended bridges but they are definitely an adventure!

Generally our first few days aimed at purposefully supporting local causes and businesses ended up serving an additional purpose–a bit of slow relaxation and unrushed time together after several crazy months.  Sometimes appreciating those you love can be the greatest purpose of all.

http://www.centropazmundo.com/

http://www.centropazmundo.com/peace-foundation/

http://atitlanreserva.com/wp/en/welcome/  

I’m not sure when I discovered Wide World Books and Maps in Seattle.  I suppose it has been part of my life intermittently for two decades. But some Saturday some years ago, I joined one of the Saturday morning groups to gather information for what would be my round-the-world adventure a few years later.  As the Gutsy Women Travelers shared their stories of traveling for months on end, staying with strangers, and working in various developing countries, I knew I had found a special version of home.

I’ve popped in and out of these groups, travel talks and the shop for many years.  It isn’t everywhere you find a group that viscerally understands an unbridled curiosity about faraway places and understands the real purpose in going, seeing, listening, learning.  Travel is not just adventure and certainly not just an escape. It is hope. It is optimism. It is trust.  It is a commitment to be part of that global world out there, to recognize our place in that big, magical community of imperfect souls and to do our best to become a better citizen.  To be overwhelmed by gratitude, to practice empathy, and to try to give more than we take as we journey through that big classroom of life.

So at the end of April, the store is closing, as most independent bookshops have already done.  The most recent owner, Julie, has kept this place– this community– going for many years as a labor of love.  For the last 40 years, it has served as a resource and community and has touched uncountable lives in profound ways.  To those who find purpose in making the world a more inclusive, curious, positive place, who create welcoming spaces and support dreams, we cannot thank you enough.  To those who are dedicated to building bridges, you are forever a part of who we are.

“Everything I was I carry with me.  Everything I will be lies waiting on the road ahead.”  –Ma Jian