Wide World Wanders

Lago Atitlan, a volcanic lake at 5000 feet in the Guatemalan Highlands is nothing short of spectacular.  Aldous Huxley declared, “Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes.  It really is too much of a good thing.”  I could not agree more, as I continually found myself in awe at the indescribable beauty.

The lake is surrounded by small villages accessible mainly by boat. We chose to stay in Santiago on the south side of the lake between two volcanoes.  It is the largest village with about 30,000 people, mostly from various Mayan groups, and has a warm feeling of quiet authenticity.  It was the perfect place to slow down and soak in an entirely different world for a few days. (It is possible to hike said volcanoes if so inclined.)

Visiting other villages by boat (lancha) is quite easy. Locals cross the lake often for work, visiting, or shopping at the different markets.  We went to San Pedro, a quiet little place with the more local life at the top of the hill near the beautiful square. Each village has its own character with warm, welcoming people plus being out on the water itself is a treat.

The ecological and political histories of this area are complex. It is one of the poorest areas in the country and has been caught in several political conflicts over the years. In the mountains are rich agricultural lands used for subsistence farming and for exports of coffee and multiple crops. The lake currently faces numerous challenges, thought to be caused partially be the introduction of foreign bass years ago and ongoing pollution from fertilizers and waste throwing off ecological balances.  This water is literally a lifeline for so many and the area also attracts significant tourism dollars with its unique beauty.

But everything this particular week revolved around Semana Santa celebrations and they are especially interesting in Santiago. This is one of the villages where Maximon plays quite a role. Maximon is a saint thought to be a combination of Mayan and Catholic traditions.  He is sometimes described as “a keeper of the balance between the shadow and the light” and I must say that I appreciate this concept.  During most of the year, “he” lives in one of several houses and to see him you must bring an offering of money, cigarettes, liquor, or such.  Then you may ask for a blessing.

This week, however, he comes out in public and we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse with hundreds of others!  So pleased with our time here, we bought a tiny Maximon for our home in Seattle.  Here’s hoping that Hubby is keeping him happy as we aim to tip the balance not toward the shadows but toward the light.

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” –Marchel Proust